Lately in this column and in Cape May Magazine I have been pondering the nature and origins of cuisines. These ruminations have led to my latest musing. How did we decide what foods to eat? I am not talking about the bizarre or exotic, but items that we routinely eat on a daily basis. There is a famous quote often attributed to Sir Walter Raleigh among others; “What a brave man, who first ventured to eat an oyster.” Brave indeed! What possessed someone to dig into the muck pull out an oyster and say, “Hey, this will be yummy.” Was it desperation? Boredom? Lack of hunting and fishing prowess? The answer is lost to history, but it was probably a combination of all three.
Nowadays we wander the wilderness of cavernous supermarkets in search of the latest trendy item. True foodies are willing to try anything once, if it is purported to be a delicacy. Items that we now accept as commonplace were once considered exotic or feared to be poisonous.
Most famous of these items is the tomato. The tomato in the wild is native to Peru and migrated to parts of Central America and modern day Mexico. It was taken to Europe and then brought to the American colonies where it was used as an ornamental plant because people thought it to be poisonous. New Jersey food lore has it that in 1820 or 1830 (legends aren’t always exact with the dates), Colonel Robert Gibbon Johnson announced that he would prove once and for all that the tomato, also referred to as the love apple in early America, was safe to eat. So in front of the Salem County Court house he consumed a bushel and lived. Shortly there after, the tomato became common food throughout New Jersey and the rest of the country. As with most legends, there is probably a little truth to it since in 1809 Thomas Jefferson served tomatoes at state dinners. But the legend resurfaces from time to time even being immortalized on the CBS show You Are There in January 1949. No sense letting facts get in the way of a good legend.
Another plant that has mysterious beginnings, but today dominates the gastronomic landscape is the cacao plant. The fruit of the cacao plant is made into sweet and tempting chocolate treats today, but began its life as a spicy bitter beverage in the Mesoamerican cultures of the Aztecs and the Mayans. Once again the Spanish took their “discovery” back to Europe where it became sweetened and processed into the form we recognize today. Once a delicacy reserved only for the wealthy, the industrial revolution turned it into a treat enjoyed by the masses.
The journey of food from plant or life form to culinary creation is a meandering road that has many twist and turns. Just like Baskin-Robbins the flavor of the month varies often in the culinary world. Dolly Madison’s favorite ice cream flavor (oyster) is not seen on store shelves these days. Lobster, once the colonial equivalent of bologna sandwich, is now priced through the stratosphere and is reserved for special occasions or the tables of the well-to-do. Skirt steak now graces the menus of top chefs, as does the hangar steak and the shank.
What causes these shifts in the culinary paradigm? Evolving dietary concerns, supply and demand economics. Some chef finds a unique way to prepare a less expensive cut to better his food cost and suddenly every chef in town is using the same inexpensive cut driving up demand and the price. The food network and internet food sites are changing the way we think about and consume food. The shrinking of the globe through commerce has made a plethora of the previously localized now available on the global table. We want our oysters and mussels from Prince Edward Island (p.e.i. in menu and chef talk). Kobe is now king of beef. Fifteen years ago Black Angus was the bovine of choice.
Is this a good thing? Do local products get lost in the shuffle? Do cheaper priced imports take over better domestic products? Undoubtedly yes, but as we get flooded with new choices, the tides will ebb and flow with consumers and chefs making choices as to which products are fads and which are here to stay. The choices may be overwhelming, but it is a good time to be a chef and a foodie. The local bounty is augmented by a global array of products, and choice becomes difficult. Do I go local or global? A zebra-striped Peruvian heirloom tomato may make a great salad for a wine dinner, but in July, when the weather is hot, slice me a juicy Jersey tomato. Roast or boil an ear of locally grown Silver Queen corn. Just because there are thousands of choices doesn’t mean you have to give up your favorites.
This month try these recipes for foods that have been looked upon warily when first introduced to the public, like Crab Imperial Stuffed Artichoke. The outsides of both the crab and the artichoke belie the sweet fruits that await those willing to do a little work for their food. Chocolate, once the bitter spicy drink of Aztec and Mayan royalty, pleases all when transformed into the now classic Pot au Crème. And finally, Fried Green Tomatoes (the fruit of the plant from the deadly nightshade family) with Crabmeat Gravy. Until next month, Bon Appétit.
Crab-stuffed Artichokes
Ingredients
- 4 Large artichokes
- 1 Lemon sliced
- 2 Bay leaves
- Salt
Crab Imperial Stuffing
- 1 Cup mayonnaise
- 1¼ Cups jumbo lump crabmeat
- 3 Tablespoons chopped parsley
- 2 Tablespoons chopped green onions
- 1 Teaspoons tarragon chopped
- Worcestershire to taste ¼ tsp
- ¼ Teaspoon lemon juice
- ½ Cup fresh bread crumbs
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
- With kitchen shears, trim tops and sharp outer leaves from artichokes.
- Fill large pot with water. Add seasonings. Bring to boil.
- Add artichokes (or use steamer basket and steam). Cook for 30-45 minutes until knife can be inserted smoothly into artichoke.
- Cool.
- Remove outer leaves and scoop out choke.
Make the stuffing
- In medium bowl, mix mayo and all ingredients but crab until smooth.
- Fold in crab.
- Fill scooped-out artichokes with crab imperial.
- Bake for 15-20 minutes at 350° until lightly browned.
- Enjoy!
Notes
Fried Green Tomatoes with Crabmeat Gravy
Ingredients
- 3 Green tomatoes sliced
- 3 Eggs whisked with milk
- Flour seasoned with salt, pepper and Old Bay Seasoning
- Panko bread crumbs with chopped parsley and thyme
For gravy
- ½ White onion finely chopped
- 2 Cloves garlic minced
- 2 Tablespoon butter
- 8 Ounces jumbo lump crabmeat
- 3 Ounces sherry
- 1 Tablespoon whole grain mustard
- 1 Tablespoon flour
- 3 Cups half-n-half
Instructions
- Slice tomatoes. Dredge in flour, then egg-wash and bread crumbs.
- Fry in peanut oil 2-3 minutes on each side until golden brown.
Make the gravy
- In saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Sweat onions and garlic.
- Add mustard. Sauté briefly.
- Deglaze with sherry
- Add half-n-half. Whisk until smooth.
- Reduce until thick gravy consistency.
- Fold in crabmeat. Heat through.
- Pour over tomatoes. Garnish with chopped green onions.
Notes
Frozen Chocolate Pot de Crème
Ingredients
- 12 Ounces semi-sweet chocolate – Valhrona or Ghirardelli
- 1½ Teaspoon vanilla
- Pinch salt
- 1½ Cups cream
- 6 Egg yolks
Instructions
- Place chocolate, vanilla and salt in blender.
- Bring cream to a boil. Pour into blender. Process 30 seconds until smooth.
- Add egg yolks. Blend until smooth.
- Place in serving dishes. Freeze overnight or, for a more traditional serving, refrigerate at least four hours until set.
