Autumn, to most, signals the end of summer and the shortening of days, and, therefore, winter cannot be far behind.
As a chef, I enjoy this time of year for several reasons. First and foremost, it is actually comfortable to be in a kitchen and cook. The cooler weather makes it enjoyable to eat again; the Jersey shore heat and humidity can destroy a person’s appetite quicker than an offer of a free California spinach salad.
Fall is one of my favorite times for food. Flavors can be a little more robust. Stews and soup can warm the insides as your outsides feel the first chills in the air. Fall produce is also wonderful. Two of my favorites are butternut squash and figs.
Around Cape Island figs are abundant right now. They are great to eat straight off the tree. The versatility of figs never ceases to tantalize my palate. Besides enjoying them fresh or in the childhood classic Newton –Yes, I enjoy fig Newton’s with a glass of milk. It is a classic snack for old or young alike – Figs are wonderful. Cooked, they figure prominently in Italian and Mediterranean cooking and grow around the world. In the United States most people are familiar with the varieties that grow in California most notably the Black Mission variety. These are dark on the outside and juicy red on the inside with intense flavors.
Around Cape May, the white fig is most commonly green on the outside with pale fruit and ruby center, although not as sweet as the mission fig they are delightful off the tree or made in to jams, sauces or desserts.
For one of my favorite appetizers, split the fig on one side. Stuff with gorgonzola or your favorite bleu cheese, then wrap in a thin slice of prosciutto and bake in a 450-degree oven for 6-8 minutes until cheese just starts to melt and the prosciutto is crispy. Serve as an appetizer with port wine syrup or reduced balsamic vinegar or as an accompaniment to a salad.
One of my favorite fall meals is good cheese, crusty bread and a hearty bottle of red wine. When the figs are ripe, I like to make fig jam to accompany the cheese board. The rich and sweet flavors can make the cheese course into a refreshingly different dessert course as well.
For an actual dessert, I love the French country classic clafoutis, which is a simple batter with fruit in it, baked in individual dishes. It is remarkable in its simplicity. The cake part is there and integral to the dish, but it allows the fruit to take center stage and provide a simple ending to an autumnal meal.
My other favorite produce item this time of year is butternut squash – a relatively ugly looking vegetable on the outside that belies the rich treat hidden within. The golden orange flesh, when roasted, becomes tender and the hidden sweetness emerges through light caramelization which allows it to stand up to lamb, as well as lighter-flavored meats such as veal and chicken. It also stands alone as a soup. Its versatility is almost chameleon-like as it adapts to whatever it is being served with.
Two items that really enhance butternut squash are beurre noisette or brown butter and sage. The sage needs to be fresh. Don’t try and use the musty-flavored jar that has been sitting on your spice shelf since last Thanksgiving. The fresh variety provides an earthy tone that raises the squash. When you add the delicate hazelnut taste of lightly browned butter, the flavors sing on the palate in a voice that can only come from angels.
Butternut works as a filling for pastas a flavoring agent for risottos or, in one of my favorite twists, using a small dice of butternut, cook it risotto-style and serve it as a side dish for roasted veal or even your Thanksgiving turkey.
Enjoy the following recipes and the emerging flavors of fall. It’s time to put away your beachwear and reenter your kitchen and cook. Until next month, Bon Appétit.
Fig Jam
Ingredients
- 2 Pints fresh figs
- 2 Cups port wine ruby preferred
- Honey to taste
- 1 Tablespoon dark brown sugar
- 4 Cups water
Instructions
- Clean stems of figs and wash well.
- Place figs and all other ingredients in medium sauce pan. Bring to boil.
- Reduce heat to simmer. Simmer for 45 minutes until figs break apart.
- Puree with immersion blender until smooth. If it is too liquidy, continue reducing. If too thick, thin with water or apple juice.
- Taste. If figs are not sweet, add additional sugar to your liking. (Note: The natural sugar content of figs varies widely depending on climate and weather. So, you may need to play with the amount of sugar you add.)
- Serve with cheeses or add a little veal or chicken stock and less sugar for a nice sauce for pork, veal, chicken or even duck. If using with savory dishes or for a unique taste with cheeses at the end, add a teaspoon or two of fresh, chopped thyme.
Fig Clafoutis
Ingredients
For the batter
- ½ Cup unbleached all-purpose flour
- ⅓ Cup plus 2 tablespoon granulated sugar
- 3 Eggs plus one yolk
- ¼ Teaspoon cinnamon
- Pinch of salt
- 1 Cup milk
For the figs
- ¼ Vanilla bean split and seeds scraped
- 2 Tablespoon unsalted butter
- 1½ Cups figs stemmed and split
- 2 Tablespoon granulated sugar
- 1 Tablespoon grappa
- Preheat oven to 400-degrees
Instructions
Batter
- In one bowl, combine dry ingredients. In separate bowl, combine milk and eggs and whisk until frothy. Add ⅓ liquid mix to dry mask, whisking until smooth. Repeat until all egg mixture is absorbed. Whisk until well blended.
Figs
- In heavy skillet, melt butter; add vanilla bean scrapings and pod. Cook over medium-high heat until butter turns nut brown. Remove pod. Add figs. Cook for 2 minutes. Remove pod. Add sugar. Cook over low heat until syrup forms. Deglaze with grappa. Place in individual shallow-making dishes. Pour batter over each dish. Bake at 400-degrees until center is firm. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Add a dollop of crème fraîche. Serve warm.
Butternut Squash Risotto Style
Ingredients
- 3 Cups ¼” diced butternut squash
- 4 Tablespoon butter
- 4 Cups chicken stock
- ½ Cup cream
- ¼ Cup chiffonaded fresh sage
- Salt and pepper to taste
- ¼ Cup shredded Locatelli cheese
Instructions
- Melt butter in pan. Over medium-high heat, add squash. Sauté until lightly brown.
- Incorporate stock a little at a time until stock is absorbed. Continue until squash is al dente.
- Add sage. Stir and add cream. Reduce.
- Add cheese, salt and pepper. Cook until thick but squash still retains it shape.
- Serve with roasted pork, lamb or veal enjoy.
