As 2006 ends and we welcome in 2007, it is time to reflect on the past as we embrace the future. I had such an opportunity this past fall when I was asked to help coach the Hot Foods Culinary Team for the annual Culinary Salon in New York City.
The Hot Foods team was just a small part of the Academy of Culinary Arts at Atlantic Cape Community College team which consisted of a centerpiece team, as well as appetizer, cold and hot meat foods team. Under the guidance of Chefs’ McClay, Johns and Dean Mueller, Chef Lynn Kolb and I went to work assembling our team.
The whole team was heavy with first year students. But I was soon to find out what they lacked in experience, they made up for with their passion for food.
A culinary salon is unlike other food competitions. It is all about art in food form, none of which will ever be consumed. It is a competition based on aesthetics and attention to detail. We were not competing against other schools and chefs per se but against a mythological standard of perfection that was to be judged by the self appointed guardians of culinary tradition, old French men. It had been twenty-plus years since I had participated in a salon. Oh boy!
But that is where the arrogance of youth comes into play. The Academy had not participated in the New York Food show in several years but since this is the Academy’s twenty-fifth year, it was time once again to compete.
Chef Kolb and I decided that this was the students’ show and we were along for guidance. So, we had them pick what would be the focal points and designs of the platters. After trial and error and much gnashing of teeth in which a dozen or so ideas were tried and discarded, we settled on two platters – Rack of Lamb with Spinach Roulade and Pheasant Ballontine and Supreme (a perfectly formed breast) with Butternut Squash Ravioli. But even after six weeks or so of practice, with the food show imminent, our platters were in disarray.
A marathon 10-hour Saturday session finally put us in a position where we felt ready. Saturday morning at 8:00 a.m. we were back at the school sandpapering lamb racks and painting them with caramel color to get that perfectly roasted look.
Then disaster struck! A container of oil left next to the flattop melted and turned the floor into a Valdez-like oil slick. A probe thermometer (used to carefully monitor the lamb’s temperature), was left in the oven with its plastic casing still on and melted in a pool of plastic goop. But we regrouped and worked right up to the last minute. We felt we had assembled enough perfect components to at least not embarrass ourselves. Just after midnight, we packed and headed for the Jacob Javits Center some three hours away. Judging would commence Sunday at 8:00 a.m. sharp.
The next five hours flew past in a whirlwind of aspic. It was hard not to look around and see the other schools. The Culinary Institute of America was there as well as Johnson and Wales (my alma mater) with armies of students decked out in their best pressed tunics and checks. Two Goliaths to our David. At 7 a.m. the lamb platter was placed on the table and, I must say, looked pretty good. The pheasant was still on the sheet pans but the rest of the table was complete. Panic and adrenaline took over enabling us to place the last component on the platter at 7:59. The results of the judging would not be made known until Monday.
In the two categories we entered: Centerpiece and Meat (Appetizer, Hot and Cold Food were considered one entry), we received Gold Medals in both.
The following is a list of all the students whose months of hard work turned into gold: Anthony Cekada, Barry Mostyn, and Robert Quirk comprised the Centerpiece team coached by Dean Muller.
The Hors d’oeuvres team coached by Acting Dean McClay, included Sheha Waters, Helen Peter, Sherry Caputo, Jennifer Townsel, Caitlin Crossin, Maryellen Parfinik, Alex Konrady, and Dominick Handy.
The Cold Foods team coached by Chef Johns, included Scott Carlino, Megan Lenahan, Alex Kaps, Stephen Daly, Jennifer Quig, Randy Wallace and Clarissa Lopez.
The Hot Foods team coached by Chef Lynn Kolb, included Marco Piro, Ed Soehngen, Marcus Anderson, Stevie Harris, Nyla Mcroskey and Juliano “MacGyver”Cannuscio.
These students proved that passion and hard work overcomes experience any day of the week.
While a passion for food that looks goods but you can’t eat is exciting for gastronomic geeks such as myself, I know loyal readers (both of you) really want recipes. So for January, welcome the New Year and winter with these soups. Serve with a loaf of bread and salad. It is a nice winter’s meal.
Cream of Crab
Ingredients
- 1 Large onion diced small
- 5 Ribs celery diced small
- 3 Carrots diced small
- 4 Ounces butter
- 4 Ounces flour
- 1 Cup sherry
- 6 Cups chicken stock
- Old bay to taste
- 2 Cups heavy cream
- 1 Pound crabmeat. Lump is okay
Instructions
- In large soup pot melt butter and sweat (cook over low heat to bring out moisture) vegetables till soft but not brown. Add flour and stir with wooden spoon until fully incorporated. Add warm chicken stock, whisking to avoid lumps. Let simmer 15- 20 minutes. Add cream. Cook 15 minutes over medium heat. Stir to avoid scorching. Add crab and sherry. Simmer 10 minutes. Enjoy with warm bread.
Puree of White Bean
Ingredients
- Soak 1 pound Great Northern or Cannelloni beans overnight
- 1 pound salt pork diced
- 4 Ribs celery diced
- 1 White onion diced
- 3 Carrots diced
- 3 Tablespoons olive oil
- 6 Cloves garlic
- 2 Tablespoons fresh thyme
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- 10 Cups chicken stock
- 2 Ounces flour
Instructions
- In large soup pot over medium high heat, add olive oil and salt pork. Render fat until salt pork is crispy (think croutons). Add vegetables. Reduce heat and sweat until soft. Add garlic. Drain white beans (If you need to cheat, add three cans well-drained white beans. Cooking time will be reduced greatly). Coat beans well. Add flour. Mix well and add chicken stock, half of crispy salt pork and half of thyme. Simmer over medium-low heat until beans are tender. Puree with immersion blender. Add remaining thyme. Garnish with remaining salt pork and chopped parsley.
- Serve with ciabbatta bread and arugala salad with shaved ricotta salata cheese and roasted garlic vinaigrette.
Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette
Ingredients
- 15 Cloves garlic
- 1 Cup olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 1/3 Cup white balsamic vinegar
- 1 Teaspoon fresh rosemary
- 1 Tablespoon lemon juice
Instructions
- Place garlic in oven safe container. Cover with oil. Roast at 350° until golden brown and soft. Remove garlic from oil. Cool. Save oil for dressing.
- In food processor, combine garlic, 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary and 1 tablespoon lemon juice puree. Add oil and vinegar. Puree until creamy in texture. Chill. Toss arugula with dressing. Lightly add ricotta salata cheese and your favorite croutons and serve with soup.
