My monthly musings on what to write for this column lead me in many directions, most often centering on origins of specific dishes, food items or other quixotic culinary quests, depending on how much caffeine or sugar I have consumed. Lately, I have been wondering on how cuisines evolve and have been absorbed into the American Gastronomic Pantheon. Most traditional “American” foods come from other countries i.e. hamburgers (Germany) pizza (Italy) French fries (really Belgian but that’s a digression for a future column.
The professional kitchen has long been a melting pot of cultures in this country – first Euro-centric and most recently it has taken a decidedly Hispanic flavor. One of the culinary world’s unique traditions is the “family meal.” This is when the cooks cook for him/herself and the rest of the staff. Anyone who has ever worked around food knows that, after working at a place for a while, the food on the menu just doesn’t appeal to you, so family meal becomes a place for old favorites and comfort food.
Spaghetti was introduced in this manner by Hector Boiardi (of Chef Boy-ar-dee fame). His regulars partook of the “foreign” food, and started buying sauce, spaghetti and cheese to take home, thus he built one of the first food companies.
The food being eaten by the staffs around Cape Island have started influencing local chefs. The Pilot House has Tijuana Tuesdays, the Mad Batter has house-made chorizo and eggs with a salsa that makes me feel like I am back in the southwest, and warm, white, corn tortillas and queso fresco – a dry, crumbly, white cheese more reminiscent of ricotta salata than the greasy cheddar and bland Jack cheeses used in gringo versions of Mexican food – to boot.
Colorado was my first real introduction to authentic Mexican food. Contrary to popular misconception, adding jalapenos and sour cream to anything wrapped in a tortilla does not constitute Mexican Cuisine hat is the corporate chain version trying to make it more Americanized. With the influx of Latino workers in the non-corporate work force, the food now cropping up on menus and being enjoyed in kitchens around the country has brought back the soul of Mexican cuisine. These are dishes made with what food products are on hand, often scraps and trimmings. Flavor is layered with multiple ingredients using spices and herbs to create meals which are tied to the soil from which it emanates. This kind of cooking has always fascinated me. It requires skill and an intimate knowledge of the ingredients. The difference with this kind of cuisine, as compared to Haute cuisine, is like having only heard Credence Clearwater Revival’s version of Proud Mary and then discovering Tina Turner’s version. One sizzles and pops with soul and raw emotion, leaving the other seemingly soulless.
It is time to go out and discover ethnic foods in their original forms and forego the bland cover versions. You wouldn’t eat at Olive Garden if you lived in South Philly and wanted Italian food.
So, venture to find real Mexican food and don’t cover it with sour cream and don’t put lettuce on fish tacos (shredded cabbage is traditional) and don’t drink Cuervo or Corona (Patron and Dos Equis or Negro Modelo are preferable). This is the true nature of American Cuisine. It is comprised of traditions from people who have come here by choice for economic, political or personal reasons, and who choose to remember their homeland by sharing with us native-born the foods they love, a tradition that is as American as…well Apple Pie, which, by the way was adopted from European cuisines.
A special thanks to Guillo, Eloy, Roberto, Bruno and all of the many people from around the globe, that I have worked with over the years who have shared their native foods with me, and opened my mind and palate to new flavors spices and culture.
Celebrate Cinco De Mayo this month with these recipes for Chile Verde, Posole, and Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche. Chile Verde or Pork Green Chile is a stew that is also a sauce for burritos or enchiladas in the southwest, and is as far removed from chili as Pat Boone from Fats Domino.* Posole is a stew made from white hominy. With Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche with Cilantro and Avocado, the new and the old world collide. Until next month, Buenos Comida.
For the uninitiated: Pat Boone charted with a cover of “Ain’t That a Shame” when white radio stations wouldn’t play Fats or other black artists.
Posole
Ingredients
Pork
- 2 pounds pork shoulder
- ½ Onion studded with 3 cloves
- 6 Cloves peeled garlic
- 8 Peppercorns
- 2 Teaspoons cumin seed
- Pinch Mexican oregano
Soup
- 1 Large onion medium diced
- 4 Cloves garlic chopped
- 2 Tablespoons corn oil
- 1 Teaspoon black pepper
- 1 Teaspoon ground cumin
- ½ Teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1 Teaspoon paprika
- 4 Cups white hominy canned drained and rinsed
- 5 Cups pork broth If short, make up difference with chicken stock
- 2 Cups roasted and diced green chilies canned is ok
- 2 Diced fresh jalapeños
- Juice of one lime
Instructions
Pork
- Place pork shoulder in soup pot.
- Add seasonings and lightly salt. Cover with water.
- Bring to boil.
- Reduce to simmer and cook for 1 hour.
- Reserve liquid cut meat in to half inch pieces.
Soup
- In large pot, sauté onions and garlic in corn oil until translucent.
- Add all remaining soup ingredients.
- Simmer covered for 1½ hours until pork and hominy are tender.
- Salt to taste. Spoon into bowls. Garnish with chop, fresh cilantro and a squeeze of lime juice.
- Serve with warm flour tortillas.
Chile Verde
Ingredients
- 1½ Pounds pork butt trimmed and small diced
- 2 Large onions diced
- 6 Cloves garlic minced
- 6 Cups roasted chopped green chilies
- 2 Ounces flour
- 1 Tablespoon cumin
- 1 Tablespoon ancho chile powder
- 1 Teaspoon oregano Mexican
- 3 Tablespoons corn oil
- 1 Chopped chipotle pepper
- 6 Cups chicken stock
Instructions
- Brown pork in oil.
- Add onions and garlic cook until soft.
- Add spices. Dust with flour. Cook 2-3 minutes over medium heat. Do not brown.
- Add stock and peppers. Simmer 1.5 hours over low heat until pork is tender.
- Adjust seasoning. Serve with warm corn tortillas and cilantro sprigs. Sour cream and cheese are for gringos only.
Shrimp Scallop Ceviche with Avocado
Ingredients
- ½ Pound 16-20-count shrimp peeled and deveined
- ½ Pound scallops quartered
- Juice from 4 limes
- Kosher salt to taste
- ½ Red pepper finely diced
- 1 Jalapeño finely diced
- 1 Clove garlic minced
- 4 Tablespoons olive oil
- Chopped cilantro to taste
- 1 Avocado cubed
Instructions
- In 2 quarts boiling water, add shrimp and scallops.
- Turn off heat. Let steep three minutes.
- Combine remaining ingredients in plastic bowl.
- Add drained seafood.
- Refrigerate 4 hours or overnight.
- Serve in martini glass well-chilled. Add more fresh cilantro if necessary.
