The mercury has at last dipped below freezing and winter has made its inevitable return to the Jersey Cape. Freezing weather means it is better to be indoors than out and on a cold winters day the best room in the house is the kitchen (poetry aside it is the best room in the house on any day). On a wintry day, food can warm the body and spirit. On these days, I prefer to put away the infused oils and fancy sauces and instead embrace hearthfelt cooking. It maybe the winter of our discontent and the times that try men’s souls (apologies to Messrs Shakespeare and Paine) but cold weather brings me back to the basics of cooking.
It is a dichotomy in the culinary world that the simplest dish to make is often the hardest to execute properly. There is no smoke and mirrors to hide behind; the food must simply stand on its own merits. For example meatloaf, much ridiculed and maligned, often from school lunchroom days, is both tasty and fulfilling or table fodder for wannabe Leno’s and Letterman’s. Likewise, mashed potatoes can be so simple and delightful in flavor when properly made or, in careless hands, end up with the texture and consistency of wallpaper paste without the flavor.
So how does one go about achieving excellence in simple dishes?
The key is to understand what you are trying to achieve. With meatloaf you are trying to take ground meat and restore its flavors to that of the roast it feels it should have become.
Ground beef, coming from tougher cuts, has great flavor but when roasted alone usually ends up as shoe leather. So by grinding and adding additional flavors and adding a panada (binding agent which I will explain in a minute), we can make a delightfully warm country version of the snobbish paté.
In selecting the meat, I like to use a mixture of ground chuck (strong flavor), ground pork and veal (helps with texture and mellows the flavor). For holding this amalgam of meats together use bread trimmed of its crust soaked in milk (just enough to break the bread down). Mix with whole eggs (this is the aforementioned panada), herbs and tomato puree and knead until it is one homogenous mixture. Because this mixture is fairly lean, I like to bard it – to cover the outside of lean meats with strips of fat to add juiciness and flavor, creating a self-basting meatloaf. It is now ready to bake. The complete recipe will follow.
Mash potatoes can inspire endless debate on how to perfect them. The first step is to select a potato. All potatoes are not created equal! They vary greatly in starch and sugar contents. Personally, I like Yukon Gold potatoes –they are in between waxy and starchy potatoes and have relatively low moisture content – which yield light, fluffy mashed potatoes. The key in mashers is cooking cut your potatoes into uniform sizes (so the starch cooks at the same rate). Always start potatoes in cold water. Bring to a boil. Then add salt. Reduce to a simmer and cook until fork tender. Drain potatoes. Return to pot and dry out on low heat 2-3 minutes to draw out excess moisture.Put potatoes in ricer or food mill and process until smooth (the ricer works best). Add warm milk, whole butter and season with salt and pepper.
This is always an area of contention. Some people insist on using only white pepper. If you want a clean look, use white pepper. If you want better flavor and don’t mind the rustic appearance, use black. Fluff with fork and serve. When flavoring mashed potatoes, always compensate for any moisture you might add by reducing amount of milk. Use about ¾ to 1 cup of milk for every 3 pounds of potatoes.
Hopefully, the warm weather will rejoin us shortly but while you’re barricaded in your home, crank the heat up by cooking old-fashioned comfort food. In addition to meat loaf and mashed potatoes, try my recipes for Chicken and Dumplings – the light fluffy kind not the Pennsylvania Dutch, hearty noodle version and Macaroni and Cheese. Plus, I will add Lobster Mac-and-cheese for a gourmet twist. And men, surprise the woman in your life with the easy to make (but don’t tell them) Chocolate Lava Cake for Valentines Day.
Until next month Bon Appétit!
Meatloaf
Ingredients
- 1 Pound ground beef
- 1 Pound ground pork
- 1 Pound ground veal
- 1 Cup diced white onion
- 2 Tablespoons minced garlic
- 1 Cup ketchup
- ½ Cup Dijon mustard
- 3 Cups fresh bread cubes crusts removed
- 1 Tablespoon chopped thyme
- 1 Teaspoon dried basil
- 5 Eggs
- ½ Cup milk
- Salt pepper to taste
- ½ Cup shredded parmesan
- 1 Red pepper diced
- 4 Scallions diced
Instructions
- Soak bread in milk. Add eggs.
- In a separate bowl, mix ground meats with remaining ingredients.
- Add bread mixture (panada) to meat. Mix thoroughly.
- Form into loaf. Place in baking dish. Cover with six strips raw bacon. Tuck ends under the loaf.
- Bake at 375° for 45 minutes to 1 hour until meat loaf reaches internal temp of 155°.
Mushroom Gravy for Mashed Potatoes
Ingredients
- 1 White onion julienned
- 3 Cups sliced mushrooms
- 1 Cup red wine
- 2 Teaspoon fresh thyme
- 2 Ounces butter
Instructions
- In large sauce pan, melt butter.
- Sauté onions until golden brown.
- Add mushrooms. Cook until tender.
- Add red wine. Reduce to ¼ cup liquid.
- Dust with flour. Stir well.
- Add 4 cups beef broth. Simmer until thickened.
- Add fresh thyme. Season with salt and pepper.
- Serve with your favorite mashed potatoes.
Chicken and Dumplings
Ingredients
- 1 Chicken cut into 8 pieces
- Flour seasoned with salt and pepper granulated garlic and onion powder
- 2 Onions julienned
- 6 Ribs celery large dice
- 4 Carrots peeled and sliced into rounds
- 12 Cups chicken stock
- 1 Tablespoon chopped thyme
- 1 Tablespoon chopped rosemary
- 1 Tablespoon garlic chopped
- Chopped parsley
Herb Dumplings
- 2½ Cups flour
- 2 Teaspoon baking powder
- 4 Eggs
- ½ Cup milk
- 2 Teaspoon parsley
- 2 Teaspoon chives
- 2 Teaspoons rosemary
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
- In large Dutch oven, heat ¼ cup olive oil.
- Coat chicken in seasoned flour. Shake off excess.
- Brown well. Remove from pan.
- Add vegetables and cook over medium heat until tender.
- Add chicken back in. Add stock and herbs. Simmer 45 minutes until chicken is tender.
- Proceed with dumpling recipe.
Make the dumplings
- Sift flour and baking powder into stainless steel bowl.
- Add eggs and milk. Mix well.
- Add herbs and salt and pepper.
- With spoon, drop batter into low, simmering stew until top of stew is covered.
- Cook 12 minutes covered and twelve minutes uncovered. Serve and enjoy.
Chocolate Lava Cake
Ingredients
- 1 Pound bittersweet chocolate preferably Valhrona
- 4 Ounces butter
- 8 Eggs separated
- ½ Cup cocoa powder
- 1 Cup sugar
- Pinch salt
- 2 Teaspoons vanilla
Instructions
- Melt chocolate and butter over double broiler.
- In a separate bowl, mix egg yolks, cocoa powder and ½ cup of sugar.
- In a mixer, whip egg whites with remaining sugar to stiff peaks.
- Fold yolk mixture into chocolate mix. Then fold in egg whites.
- Add pinch of salt and 2 teaspoons vanilla.
- Pour into 6 individually buttered and sugared baking dishes.
- Bake at 400° for 12-15 minutes.
- Cool slightly. Un-mold. Serve warm with vanilla bean ice cream.
