The dictionary defines persnickety as; fussy about small details, overly particular about trivial details, requiring great precision and snobbish.
Labor Day is close by and another season starts to wind down. The circle of life goes on and that got me thinking about the cycle of food and specifically food trends. Some burst upon the scene with a big splash, then disappear, never to be heard of again. New coke, French-fry vending machines, the McDLT for example. And sometimes, many years later, a trend comes back just as strong as the first time. Fondue, a hit in 70’s has made resurgence. The trend of the last few years, the low-carb craze, seems to be dying off. If the fast food chains pick up a fad, you can consider that the death knell of a trend. Will it return?
Here is a list of restaurant and food trends, throughout the years, some I recall fondly and others cause me to shudder and say what were we thinking?
-Carafes of Wine Years ago (way back in the 20th century), every place served wine in those ugly hour-glass shaped bottles. And they were usually filled with wines that, when you asked about the vintage, the waiter would look at his watch. It was bad wine served badly. That was a trend, I hope, that is forever behind us.
-The Martini The classic American cocktail served in a sleek, beautifully designed art deco glass. The rage in 1920’s, the martini seemed relegated to land-of–over-the-hill-ad-execs and “has- been writers” and movie spies. But the martini has been reborn and not just the classic gin or vodka, but now any drink can be called a martini if put in that timeless glass. As a chef, I embrace the trend of food being served in a martini glass – from ceviche to tuna tartare, (another re-invention of a classic dish) to mash potato and even soup.
-Prime Rib There was a time when you wouldn’t consider having a menu without prime rib on it. A thick slab of salt-encrusted blood-rare meat with large quantities of fat. Today, prime rib is relegated to the steakhouse and Vegas buffets. On the modern menu, you find the grilled rib eye, the same cut of meat, but differently prepared.
-Ostrich was supposed to be the new red meat, healthier and leaner. People went out and started ostrich farms and were going to get rich quick. That worked out well?!
-Sizzlean, turkey bacon, turkey ham, turkey sausage, turkey scrapple. The problem with these products was that they were pale imitations of the real things. Yes they were healthy, but they just did not taste as good. Remember, fat is flavor.
Portion sizes have always gone up and down over the years, from oversized to 3 course meals that have you stopping at your local drive-thru on your way home. In the early 1900’s dinners were multi-course exercises in excess. In the 1970’s nouvelle cuisine reigned in portion sizes that would leave a super-model hungry.
Chefs are always looking to the past as they re-invent dishes. Food as simple as macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes and even the cheesesteak have received culinary makeovers. For a while, you had different pasta’s covered in everything from goat cheese to gorgonzola, called mac-cheese.
The potato was mashed, smashed and hashed with lobster, pancetta and exotic mushrooms.
The cheesesteak has been put on brioche and topped with French cheese and even foie-gras. Why? Because even when we want something different or unique, we usually rely on preparations that are familiar to us. That reminds us of the comfort of mom’s or grandma’s cooking. That is why you can always find something familiar on even the trendiest menu.
As I settle into my bean bag chair, with a can of orange crush and a fluffer-nutter sandwich, I wonder, what trends now will be gone quickly. Are truffle oil and basmati rice in for the long-haul or will they be in the back of the pantry with raspberry vinegar and white Worcestershire sauce.
The recipes this month are a couple of reinvented classic “steak tartare” as a French culinary legend. I prefer the modern rendition of tuna tartare, which can be beautifully served in the timeless martini-glass, and a twist on grits, the crab & cheese grits.
Tuna Tartare
Ingredients
- 1 lb. #1 Grade tuna diced, ( only use top quality, sushi grade tuna)
- 3 Tbsp Cilantro chopped
- 1 Tbsp ginger diced
- 3 Tbsp sweet soy sauce
- 1 Tbsp soy sauce
- 1 Tbsp sesame oil
- 2 green onions scallions, diced
- 1 tsp sriracha “hot chili” sauce
- 1 Tbsp Thai sweet chili sauce
- 1 tsp chopped garlic
Instructions
- Mix all ingredients, refrigerate 2-3 hours.
Notes
Mix wasabi powder with water and add sour cream (use as much powder as you like to achieve the wanted strength). Presentation:
Serve in a classic martini glass, garnish with pickled ginger and julienned cucumber and a dollop of wasabi sour cream.
Crab & Cheese Grits
Ingredients
- 1 cup grits cooked per directions
- 1/4 -1/2 cup jumbo lump crab meat
- 1/4 cup shredded cheddar
- Heavy cream as needed to achieve consistency
- 2 stalks diced green onions
Instructions
- Put hot grits in sauté pan, add cheese & cream, cook till cheese is melted.
- Fold in green onions and serve with pan fried fish of your choice.
Bon Appetit
Till next time…Laissez Le Bon Temps Roulee
Food News
Hot off the net: Don Donaldson told CapeMay.com that Chef Harry Gleason has decided not to exercise his lease option at Daniels on Broadway. “Therefore,” he said “We are going to start marketing the turn-key restaurant operation for lease.” He added that this was a great opportunity for a talented chef/operator.
The conch shell – well – actually the message on the phone – at Restaurant 1919 says that the gourmet restaurant is no more. It seems, according to Chef Neil Elsohn, that there’s a been a dispute with the landlord who has forced the restaurant’s closing. Restaurant 1919 opened Friday the 13th in May and was located at the former Anchorage Restaurant across the street from the Lobster House.
KUDOS: To Gecko’s on Carpenter’s Lane and La Verandah on Grant Street. Both received 3-star reviews recently from the extremely persnickety food critic C.C. Hoyt of The Press of Atlantic City.
Food Events
September 2, 3, 5, 10, 24
Winery Cellar Tour and Tasting
Spend an afternoon at the awarding-winning Cape May Winery. Includes a barrel tasting accompanied by cheese and fruit and a complimentary tasting glass. 3 p.m. $20 per person.
For more information or to purchase tickets, call 609-884-5404 or 800-275-4278 or visit www.capemaymac.org
September 3 Tomato Festival
At the West Cape May Borough Hall Parking Lot. For more information, call 609-884-8382.
September 4, 11, 18, 25
Sunday Brunch Walk
Walking tour of Cape May’s Historic District concluding on the promenade along the beach. Brunch at Henry’s on the Beach following the tour. 10:30 a.m. $20 for adults, $10 for children (ages 3-12). Tour begins and tickets may be purchased at the Washington Street Mall Information Booth. For more information, call 609-884-5404 or 800-275-4278 or visit www.capemaymac.org
September 7, 14, 21, 28 Gourmet Brunch Walk
Walking tour of Cape May’s Historic District followed by a gourmet brunch at the world-famous Mad Batter Restaurant on historic Jackson Street. 10:30 a.m. $20 for adults; $10 for children (ages 3-12). Tickets are available and tour begins at the Washington Street Mall Information Booth at Ocean Street.
For more information, call 609-884-5404 or 800-275-4278 or visit www.capemaymac.org
September 17 – 22 9th Annual Food & Wine Festival
The five-day Cape May Food and Wine Festival shows visitors why the New York Times calls Cape May the “restaurant capital of New Jersey.” Take classes and seminars taught by Cape May chefs. Attend workshops and tours that invite visitors into the kitchens of Cape May’s critically acclaimed restaurants. Enjoy special dinner and lunch meal packages and visit the Gourmet Marketplace, featuring the People’s Choice Chowder Contest. Throughout Cape May from Saturday through Wednesday, Sept. 17 to 21. Sponsored by the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts (MAC). For more information, call 609-884-5404 or
800-275-4278 or visit www.capemaymac.org
