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As 2006 ends and we welcome in 2007, it is time to
reflect on the past as we embrace the future. I had such an
opportunity this past fall when I was asked to help coach the Hot Foods Culinary
Team for the annual Culinary Salon in New York City.
The Hot Foods team was just a small part of the Academy of Culinary
Arts at Atlantic Cape Community College team which consisted of a centerpiece
team, as well as appetizer, cold and hot meat foods team. Under the guidance
of Chefs’ McClay, Johns and Dean Mueller, Chef Lynn Kolb and I went to work
assembling our team.
The whole team was heavy with first year students. But I was soon
to find out what they lacked in experience, they made up for with their passion
for food.
A culinary salon is unlike other food competitions. It is all about
art in food form, none of which will ever be consumed. It is a competition based
on aesthetics and attention to detail. We were not competing against other
schools and chefs per se but against a mythological standard of perfection that
was to be judged by the self appointed guardians of culinary tradition, old
French men. It had been twenty-plus years since I had participated in a salon.
Oh boy!
But that is where the arrogance of youth comes into play. The
Academy had not participated in the New York Food show in several years but
since this is the Academy’s twenty-fifth year, it was time once again to compete.
Chef Kolb and I decided that this was the students’ show and we
were along for guidance. So, we had them pick what would be the focal points and
designs of the platters. After trial and error and much gnashing of teeth in
which a dozen or so ideas were tried and discarded, we settled on two platters –
Rack of Lamb with Spinach Roulade and Pheasant Ballontine and Supreme (a
perfectly formed breast) with Butternut Squash Ravioli. But even after six weeks
or so of practice, with the food show imminent, our platters were in disarray.
A marathon 10-hour Saturday session finally put us in a position
where we felt ready. Saturday morning at 8:00 a.m. we were back at the school
sandpapering lamb racks and painting them with caramel color to get that
perfectly roasted look.
Then disaster struck! A container of oil left next to
the flattop melted and turned the floor into a Valdez-like oil slick. A probe
thermometer (used to carefully monitor the lamb’s temperature), was left in the
oven with its plastic casing still on and melted in a pool of plastic goop. But
we regrouped and worked right up to the last minute. We felt we had assembled
enough perfect components to at least not embarrass ourselves. Just after
midnight, we packed and headed for the
Jacob Javits Center some three hours away.
Judging would commence Sunday at 8:00 a.m. sharp.
The next five hours flew past in a whirlwind of aspic. It was hard
not to look around and see the other schools. The Culinary Institute of America
was there as well as Johnson and Wales (my alma mater) with armies of students
decked out in their best pressed tunics and checks. Two Goliaths to our David.
At 7 a.m. the lamb platter was placed on the
table and, I must say, looked pretty good. The pheasant was still on the sheet
pans but the rest of the table was complete. Panic and adrenaline took over
enabling us to place the last component on the platter at 7:59. The results of the judging would not be made known until Monday.
In the two categories we entered: Centerpiece and Meat (Appetizer,
Hot and Cold Food were considered one entry), we received Gold Medals in both.
The following is a list of all the students whose months of hard work
turned into gold: Anthony Cekada, Barry Mostyn, and Robert Quirk comprised the Centerpiece
team coached by Dean Muller.
The Hors d’oeuvres team coached by Acting Dean McClay, included
Sheha Waters, Helen Peter, Sherry Caputo, Jennifer Townsel, Caitlin Crossin,
Maryellen Parfinik, Alex Konrady, and Dominick Handy.
The Cold Foods team coached by Chef Johns, included Scott Carlino, Megan
Lenahan, Alex Kaps, Stephen Daly, Jennifer Quig, Randy Wallace and Clarissa
Lopez.
The Hot Foods team coached by Chef Lynn Kolb, included Marco Piro, Ed
Soehngen, Marcus Anderson, Stevie Harris, Nyla Mcroskey and Juliano
“MacGyver”Cannuscio.
These students proved that passion and hard work overcomes experience any
day of the week.
While a passion for food that looks goods but
you can’t eat is exciting for gastronomic geeks such as myself, I know loyal
readers (both of you) really want recipes. So for January, welcome the New Year
and winter with these soups. Serve with a loaf of bread and salad. It is a nice
winter’s meal. |
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Puree of white bean
Soak 1 pound Great Northern or Cannelloni beans overnight
1 pound salt pork diced
4 Ribs celery diced
1 White onion diced
3 Carrots diced
3 Tablespoons olive oil
6 Cloves garlic
2 Tablespoons fresh thyme
Salt and black pepper to taste
10 Cups chicken stock
2 Ounces flour
In
large soup pot over medium high heat, add olive oil and salt pork. Render fat
until salt pork is crispy (think croutons). Add vegetables. Reduce heat and
sweat until soft. Add garlic. Drain white beans (If you need to cheat, add three
cans well-drained white beans. Cooking time will be reduced greatly). Coat
beans well. Add flour. Mix well and add chicken stock, half of crispy salt pork
and half of thyme. Simmer over medium-low heat until beans are tender. Puree
with immersion blender. Add remaining thyme. Garnish with remaining salt pork
and chopped parsley.
Serve with ciabbatta bread and arugala salad with shaved ricotta salata cheese
and roasted garlic vinaigrette. |
