In pondering this month’s column, several ideas
crossed my mind, but I kept coming back to something I have wanted to write
about for some time. Since it is a subject that evokes strong
opinions on both sides of the meadow, I have avoided it until now. LAMB.
In the old west sheep ranchers
and cattlemen were mortal enemies even the open plains weren’t big enough for
both of them. Big Beef won that range war, and we are a nation of beefeaters. At
home, on the other range, lamb is divided into two camps – those who love it,
and those who go into convulsions at the mere thought of eating lamb. It used to
be, in the earlier part of the 20th century, that most lamb consumed
was actually mutton. Older animals of any species tend to be stronger in flavor.
Lamb, even when young, has a distinctive flavor profile. In a country where the
meat has been methodically raised to appeal to the masses (read bland), is there
still a place for lamb?
Most restaurants serve imported
New Zealand lamb; it tends to be more cost effective. I will never understand
global economics it is beyond my comprehension that lamb shipped from the other
side of the globe is cheaper than that raised in this country. It also tends to
be smaller (read younger) and lighter in flavor. Having spent many years in
Colorado, I am partial to lamb raised in that state. Virginia’s Shenandoah
Valley also has some great lamb producers. Food should have character, the
double-edged sword of mass production. Yes, lower prices, but in the quest to
make more money in volume, the industry rushes the animals to market, worried
more about how they can increase carcass weight than in producing a product that
actually has a flavor profile.
How do you cook Lamb? Lamb
requires patience and some skill to properly prepare. Lamb, when cooked by dry
heat methods (searing roasting grilling), should be served between medium rare
and medium for the best flavor profile.
It is telling that the French
have one term when roasting lamb and that is rosé (basically between medium rare
and medium). This allows the best flavor. Rare is too bloody and does not allow
enough of the fat to be melted (fat is flavor). Well done dries the meat out too
much giving it a livery taste and leathery texture.
What cut do you serve? The rack
is the king of lamb cuts. When handled properly, the flavor is succulent and the
meat melts in your mouth. Pan searing then roasting in the oven is my preferred
cooking method. A light crust helps protect the delicate eye and enhance flavor.
For grilling, loin lamb chops lightly marinated work well, and if you can find
them – the Denver ribs, which are really riblets, compared to its porcine
counterpart – are a grill masters dream. That leaves the leg, the shoulder and
the shank to discuss.
The leg should be roasted slowly
to melt the fat and trigger the Millard Reaction. The Maillard Reaction is the
process where the proteins and amino acids react with the sugars (carbohydrates)
this process occurs between 300 and 500 degrees Fahrenheit creating the browning
effect on the outside of meat and creating the aromas that make roasting meat
smell so good and taste even better. The shank and the shoulder work best with
braising techniques to break down connective tissue to make tenderer. These
cuts, as a result, will be served well done – which should appease those who
absolutely won’t eat meat cooked medium or medium rare (also known as properly
cooked).
After deciding on a cut and
cooking technique, the next question is what should you serve with it and what
flavorings and seasonings should be used? I do have one rule that is inviolable.
Under NO circumstances can mint jelly be served in my presence. This is a
barbaric practice that dates back to the
dark ages of culinary knowledge in this
country (the 1950’s) and probably originated in England (enough said).
Lamb’s strong flavor means that
strong seasonings can be used. My favorites include rosemary, mustard, dried
cherries and espresso grounds. You read that correctly. Coffee has unique flavor
properties that I love to pair with lamb. The Italians have a product called Fruita di Mostarda, which is fruit preserved in mustard that, while potent,
compliments lamb well.
For accompanying sauces, and as a
beverage alongside, robust red wines work best. Merlot was long a favorite but
the kool-aid varietals that are now common don’t work as well. Try a Chilean
Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon or even a tannic Zinfandel instead.
This month don’t be sheepish and
experiment with spring lamb. Try these recipes Braised Lamb Shank with cippolini
onions and rosemary polenta with Morbier cheese. Espresso Crusted Lamb Rack with
apple butter demi-glace and for Easter, a dish I first learned from my uncle’s
dad, an Italian chef of great repute, Roasted Leg of lamb with forty garlic
cloves.
Until next month, Bon Appétit. |